I alluded to this in previous letters. The two vendors who “fired” me were both graders. Grading is when the sample physical pattern is digitized and size variants are created from the sample size. Sounds simple, right? So, so not simple. The two graders that decided we couldn’t w
ork together thought my designer and I were being too picky. Whatever! Have you ever had pant that fit tightly in the crotch but were fine everywhere else? That was likely a grading problem and I wasn’t interested in that.
During the grading process, the designer creates a list of about 15 measurement points and gives the grader a spreadsheet indicating how much to increase or decrease each measurement point to create all the sizes. Again, sounds simple but where the grader places the changes make a huge difference to fit. If you need the Large size to slope differently than the Medium, it can be very difficult to accomplish.
With these particular graders, let’s just say we asked for specific tweaks and they were unhappy with the requests. One grader, fairly, said she could make the same amount of money with less time and hassle, which is true. But this is why clothes – especially fast fashion – tend to fit horribly. I wanted better for Everyday Sabbatical, so my team and I worked until we found a grader that would work with us